August 2019 was a move from Cornwall to Essex and to the ‘birthplace of radio’ – Chelmsford! Very happy here…
very impressed with a talk from this group:
run a from a pendrive then as root do: rm -rf /media/ubuntu/uuid/external/home-.Trash-1000/
on the system root drive, the folder /external/home overfills the root drive if the proper /external drive external on USB disconnects.
All based on a 1.8t AMK engine, K04 turboTurbo to manifold bolts (the 3[strikethrough] star[/strikethrough] Ribe head ones)
Downpipe to turbo (the 3 nuts that go onto the studs)
Banjo bolts for oil feed pipe
Oil line securing bolt 10Nm.
Hollow bolt into CHRA 30Nm.
Oil filter housing
Oil line securing bolt23Nm.
Hollow bolt into oil housing 30Nm.
Turbo CHRA to engine block
Hollow bolt CHRA 30Nm.
Waterline securing bolt 10Nm.
Hollow bolt engine block 35Nm.
Turbo CHRA to cooling circuit
Hollow bolt CHRA 35Nm.
Waterline securing bolt20Nm.
Oil return line
Bolts to sump 10Nm.
Bolts to CHRA 10Nm.
Turbo to engine block holding mount
Pendulum support (‘dogbone’ – under the engine) geabox to subframe mount
Bolts A (2 x the same) pendelum support to subframe – 20Nm (15lb ft) plus 1/4 turn (90 degrees)
bolts B (2 off) pendulum support to transmission – 40Nm (30lb ft) plus 1/4 turn(90degrees)
Be careful, I stripped the first bolt B trying for the 90degrees
need to remind myself about this for resetting battery state monitors on APC SmartUPS’s. This is using the (cheap) blue USB to serial, lsusb shows them as ‘Prolific Technology’
sudo apt-get install minicom
Check if the USB to serial adapter seen:
$ dmesg | grep tty [1016778.750081] usb 1-3: pl2303 converter now attached to ttyUSB0
So start minicom accordingly:
sudo minicom –device /dev
Export from the gsheet (prime up to date source) into an odt spreadsheet. Use the mailmerge template letters (in each church pastoral folder). Filter using the ‘mailing ok’ ticklist field, including unticking those from the same household, for which the ‘MailMerge-Sal’ field is inserted in between ‘Forename’ and ‘Surname’ to concatenate ‘him & her’ type naming. Use same on salutation line of letter. ‘Address2’ field line, often blank, can be suppressed with a ‘Hidden Paragraph’ formula field: Condition = ![Docname.Sheetname.Columnname]. Likewise a ‘Hidden text’ formula field can be used to suppress other blank entries, eg lack of ‘Prefix’, lack of ‘MailMerge-Sal’ field. Naming these conditions is simplified by not having ANY spaces in the name of either the doc, the sheet(tab) or the column! Use the ‘View–>’Field Names’ menu option to highlight the full field name when creating the suppressed field; this view also allows the hidden paragraph/text field to be seen. Fiddly, but it does work reliably (I think) and once set up in a doc shouldn’t need redoing.
For reasons I haven’t figured re-opening a document all setup with these mailmerge fields results in the mailmerge buttons greyed out? I’ve been working around this by using ‘Tools –> MailMerge Wizard’ and clicking defaults until ‘Finish’ shows, this makes the mailmerge toolbar buttons ungreyed (?). Click ‘Edit Individual Documents’ button to create a page-per-address single document.
To filter which addresses are approved for a mailing use the ‘OK (e)mail’ ticklist field. Using this to filter it’s possible to also exclude the duplicate address people, who’s names are inserted in both the address & greeting fields, with appropriate editing of the ‘MailMerge-Sal’ column. Note that when updating the data source .odt (eg after making amendments) turning on the ticklist filter does NOT stop unticked lines being exported into a new .odt. Because of this, simply copy/paste from the gsheet and overwrite the previous .odt data. Don’t amend or change the name of the .odt either, as otherwise all the mailmerge field names need dragging in again.
If you find crazy page numbers or loads of blanks in the merged output it’s because lower down rows in the sheet are not totally empty. Delete all rows below the last entry to resolve this (it’s taken me years to notice/figure this!).
An existing user with access to the shared YouTube channel can allow others to work with the same ‘Brand’ channel, incl at different levels (neat!)
- Got to your channel: https://www.youtube.com/account
- This is where all ‘Brand’ channel settings can be tweaked
- Under ‘Channel managers’ choose ‘Add or remove manager(s)’; then ‘MANAGE PERMISSIONS’
- Add new person:
- Select ‘Owner’ (or as you wish); ‘invite’
sudo apt install ocl-icd-opencl-dev xorriso
The Dell Optiplex 5040 (6th Gen i5) has Intel 530 onboard graphics chip:
backup to remote lan directory:
rsync -azp –info=progress2 /media/windows/drive/ firstname.lastname@example.org:/home/space/backup/dir
restore from a remote location:
What’s the best and most convenient connector for 12v appliances onboard?
The boat has some of these:
They’re often called ‘Clipsal 12v’ sockets, (Clipsal makes a wide range of electrical gear); sometimes called a ‘2 pin parallel’ connector. I suspect they originate from caravanning. Note the neutral blade is wider than the live, for a polarised connection. Not to be confused with what I think is an older caravan 12v connector often called a ‘W4’, where the blades are the same size and angled:
Both of the above can handle 10amps. Other common 12v connectors found are the ubiquitous cigar/cigarette connector:
Many 12v appliances come with a plug to fit they above. They’re not great connectors because they are an adaptation of the cigar lighter, and were not designed to be a DC connector.
I’ve also used a 12v ‘Hella’ plug (a nickname after the German brand that makes them). I first encountered this on our 1975 John Deere 2120. Hardly any tractors at that point had any kind of 12v outlet; it was probably fitted because the tractors were German made (Mannheim), where this connector is popular. It’s quite a good connector, but only 8amp (at 12v; can also be used for 24v)